The club’s programme covers top-quality straight-ahead post-bop jazz to – in the words of part-owner Chad Matheny – “experimental Zappa-influenced atonal intellectual weirdos” plus the occasional “noisy, scrappy acoustic pop act”. Less well known, and much smaller (50 capacity), is Donau115 in the lively Neukölln district. Its best known jazz clubs are the A Trane and Zig Zag, where more established artists feature. Germany’s capital isn’t short of live music venues covering every conceivable genre. On many nights it’s free of charge.Īdmission €5 (€10 for name international acts), mid-week jam sessions free entry, beer from €2.50, booking advised at weekends, 28 Market Square, +12 421 57 41, Harris is on the hugely atmospheric Market Square and lays on mainstream jazz, funk and blues, good food (international mains from £3) and a boisterous vibe. These are small places (both about 70 capacity) in near-1,000-year-old brick cellars with bars in adjacent rooms. There is boundless local and national talent, such as pianist Paweł Kaczmarczyk, who’s appearing at the club on 6 February, who have risen to the top at clubs such as Harris and U-Muniaka in Kraków. Nowadays such is the audience for the genre that top US jazz acts often play several dates in the country. After the war, amid Stalin’s repression, jazz came to symbolise freedom and resistance, so in many ways has a greater resonance here than in the UK, say. But the second world war put paid to all the fun. Jazz spread like wildfire in Europe in the early 1920s and Poland joined the swing explosion with enthusiasm, merging it with its own fiddle-based traditions.
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